Two days in Paraty were hardly enough

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Two days in Paraty were hardly enough. The town dates from the earliest 1700s and was the initial major port of entry for the Portuguese. From here the treasures of Brazil, gold and silver, were shipped back to the colonial authorities. In the mid-1700s the Portuguese ran the French out of Rio de Janeiro and moved all the major trading efforts there, effectively abandoning Paraty. Fortunately, the city merely slumbered rather than being torn down; with the colonial architecture and cobbled streets mostly abandoned and quiet, but preserved.



Today it is a thriving tourist destination, with dozens of art galleries, restaurants, and music filling the air. The well-preserved architecture is painted as it would have been during the Colonial period, and many of the windows and doors are restored. There are no cars allowed in the central district, even firewood is delivered by horse and wagon. At night as you walk the dimly lit streets and hear the church bell toll, you can imagine what it was like over 300 years ago.



We arrived on Wednesday afternoon and checked into a charming bed and breakfast, Pousada Estalagem Colonial with our host Ricardo. Turns out the place had been a larger hotel, but a family feud had caused it to be broken apart and now Ricardo, who has worked here for over 30 years, was able to keep the name for his four bedroom place. (By the way, if you are ever here, stay with Ricardo. For $27 per person per night you get the best shower in Brazil, a clean room and bed, and breakfast in the court yard with plenty of great coffee, fresh fruits, fresh squeezed orange juice and eggs to order.)



We wandered the streets that afternoon and evening, checking out the three very beautiful churches, artists’ workshops, and the photographic displays. A pizza made of homemade crust and mozzarella and some passion fruit gelato called for a nap back at the inn.



On Thursday we went for a sail on a schooner that took us through the harbor and to four beaches. We were sung to by Fabio, who also provided a running narrative on the history (10 forts defended the harbor on the small islands dotted throughout) and some of the interesting facts of the towns on the coast (as in, the kids in the villages take a water bus to school every day—it takes two hours each way for some). I decided to take a swim and walk one of the beaches, it was my last chance in Brazil.



When we returned there was more wandering the streets and shopping until dinner. This was followed by a visit to one of the many dessert carts and enjoying a passion fruit cheesecake. (Dessert carts, there’s an idea!)





Friday morning, after another great breakfast (fresh mango, papaya, pineapple and orange juice) we caught the bus for our last stop in Brazil, Rio.

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